Week 4 Progress ~ Vogue V8991 Couture Jacket

I decided to keep a running journal for this very overwhelming project. The goal is to write my progress daily and then post it at the end of the week. Read my posts for week 1 here and week 2 and 3 here. I took a week off of sewing for family/life stuff but now I'm back and get to start on week 4 ....

~ Week 4 Progress Pictures ~ 

I'm really excited about this weeks work. There's actual construction involved. Before this point it was all about prepping that front panel. I never thought that I would be so excited to sew a seam. Lol

Steps 27 and 28 are a bit of prep work but very minimal. It's simply quilting the lining to the fashion fabric of the side front piece. Just as in a previous step, I skipped the hand basting and just pinned it and then did the machine quilting line. Using silk pins is essential in this step. Otherwise the pinholes would be overly large and the silk lining wouldn't recover.

Step 29 is attaching the front and side front, making sure not to include the side front lining. Again there was basting that I replaced with pins, glorious pins. lol There is also a note to press the seam open. This is quite confusing because in the next few steps the lining is going to be stitched to the seam allowance. I pressed the seam toward the side front.

Step 30 and 31 are pinning and basting the lining to the front piece and then handstitching the lining to the seam.

A poorly lit image of my pinned lining.
That's what I get for sewing in the middle of the night.
The machine sewn line in the background is the quilting line

Step 32 and 33 are attaching the free edge of the side front lining over the front lining. It went rather well, although, I did have to watch a YouTube video to understand how to actually do the slipstitch. Here's the video:



Step 34 is attaching the pocket that I didn't make so obviously I skipped this part.

At this point I know that there are steps missing. While I was researching this pattern I read that the instructions are incomplete as to the treatment of the back. The lining has darts but the fashion fabric (in this case, silk tweed) doesn't. You are supposed to shrink out the fullness. With wool tweed that would work but silk doesn't shrink. So at this point I stitched the darts, by hand, in the fashion fabric.

Pattern Instructions for Darts in Lining

Step 35 to 37 is attaching the back pieces together along with adding the side pieces of the fashion fabric. For the neckline interfacing I used cotton muslin.

Darts and Center Seam of Silk Tweed and Silk Lining

Steps 38 to 40 is sewing the darts in the back lining (I did mine by hand), attaching them and attaching the sides. Yay for all the seam work this week. It's starting to come together.

I hope that all of your sewing projects are going together like a dream.

Until next time, 

Happy Stitching!!

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